Handloom Weaving and Hand knitted craft of Himachal

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Himachal is the land of snow with mountains and rich forests. Himachal is not only famous for its beauty but also for handmade products created by artisans. Art and craft of any region is a reflection of its tradition, environment and people. As Himachal has unfavorable climatic conditions and geographically difficult region so for people it’s difficult to remain outdoor for around six months. People utilize their time in weaving wool and other crafts. The craft of Himachal is shawls, carpet, paintings, leather works, woodworks, metalware, knotted socks, cap and woolen textiles which also attract tourists. From all craft, shawls are the most popular craft of this region.

Handloom Weaving

Woolen products of Himachal are most popular across the country and the international markets. People from different castes are engaged in weaving in Kullu, Himachal. Various kinds of woolen clothes are made by Himachal artisans like shawls, pattus, patties, lahang, etc. Every household has its own pit loom and both men and women are involved in this craft. Weaving is generally done during chilly winter months; when pharis are compelled to stay indoors.

Pattu is a woolen traditional dress, draped by women for everyday wear. It is plain or chequered with simple borders. It looks like shawls and is worn over clothes. Women drape like a sarees secured at the shoulders with a pin and tied around the waist with a piece of cloths called gachichi (belt). It is manufactured as well as purchased by local communities so it is woven using local wool.

Patti is short width fabric that is used for coats, jackets or trousers. It is heavy twill fabric generally woven from twofold hand-spun natural white or brown/ black local wool of coarse count.


Kullu Shawl Weaving

The shawl is most popular among all woven shawls in India. Hand-woven Kullu shawls are known for the unique process and techniques that give them significant value addition. Shawl weaving has become a source of livelihood to about more than 35 thousand weavers of the state. It is an employment generation activity for household women. Merino wool, local sheep wool, Pashmina, Angora or mixture of this wool is used as raw material to make the shawl. The Himachali shawl is a light woolen fabric. Traditionally Shawls have three borders at the end used with a vast range of acrylic colors. Yarn used for making shawl may be chemically or naturally dyed. Normally the shawls have a geometrical and floral design on the corners or on the borders. Each design consists of bright colors like red, yellow, magenta, orange, blue, black, magenta and white. Brown, natural grey, white or black are used as the base in the shawls.

Other handloom products are Kullu caps, Numda, Gudma, etc. Kullu caps are in round shape and flat on top locally used by men which are made from wool or cotton yarn. Numda is the local name for a mattress made by felting the wool. Gudma is a heavy blanket made from Byang wool. Gudma is especially found in Kullu which is woven in natural wool colors.

Hand knitted Products.

Women of Kullu and Manali District are experts in making hand-knitted woolen products. These knitted Products are highly ‘demandable’ by the Indian and foreign tourists. Materials used in products like Angora wool and Pashmina wool mainly. These materials are very warm in nature thereby keeping the human body cozy, especially in the winter season. During the winter season, Women are free from agriculture work they shift their focus on creating this craft.


Women artisan making woolen products

Women are experts in making woolen socks, gloves, sweater and caps which has a geometrical design with bright colors. A unique characteristic of these hand-knitted products is that they are knitted with 4 needles instead of two and are quite sturdy and less liable to tear. The price of hand-knitted woolens depends on the quality of the wool and the pattern used.

Kullu shawl is protected under geographical indication of goods but the number of weavers engaged in this art is reportedly decreasing over the years. The distinctive crafts of Himachal Pradesh are liked by everyone. This industry is part of the lifestyle of the Kullu people. There is much demand for these products in the international market. The major markets of woolen products are UK, Canada and other countries like UAE, Saudi Arabia, etc. Although there are some challenges that are faced by artisans such as marketing, direct selling, unavailability of finance for raw material and non -availability of raw material at a suitable time and in ample quantity and quality. Secondly, Weavers are also facing competition with the shawls manufactured on a power loom. Some efforts are needed from the government and non- government institutions to support artisans in direct marketing their products, technical knowledge of looms and export opportunities.

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