Toda Embroidery – The Art of Nilgiri Tribal
Toda
embroidery is a distinct style of embroidery of Toda tribal community of
Nilgiri district in Tamil Nadu. It is locally known as ‘Pugur’, which means
flower. The embroidery is so fine that fabric looks like woven cloth.
Both sides of the embroidered fabric are usable. Tribe forwards this unique
style of embroidery from generation to generation. Toda people are proud of
this unique heritage. Toda embroidery is part of their daily life as they wear thick
traditional garments with hand embroidery.
More than 300 Toda women are dependent on
this profession. They are very expert in embroidery on the surface of plain
cotton material. The local term for the embroidery work used by artisans are
‘kuty’ or ‘awtty’ meaning stitching and ‘kutyvoy’ means the embroidered piece.
The embroidered shawl is called “Puthukuli” in local terms. Young Toda girls learn this craft by observing the
works done by the elders of the community. As a custom of the community, dead body is always wrapped with Toda
embroidered fabric and then buried. Men and women both use the embroidered
cloth in all ceremonies and funerals.
The material used by artisans in this work are roughly hand-woven white
cloth, woolen or cotton black and red threads and needles. The designs of the
embroidery are inspired by their daily life and surrounding nature. The fabric
is loosely woven as embroidery is done by counting the weaves (warp and weft)
and the color is white because embroidery is done with red and black woolen
threads. Todas use the rougher underside of the fabric as the right side. The
geometric design is done by counting the warp and weft on the fabric. Artisans sew without a set pattern, inspired by their own
imagination. The
women embroider within these stripes using a single stitch darning needle
without any frame and count threads on fingers. Artisans were using vegetable fibre
as threads, while now embroidery threads are used as threads. The
shawl has alternate red and black stripes at the gap of six inches. The
embroidery on the shawls which is done on the left of the black stripe (around
the two red stripes) is called the karnol, while the embroidered pattern
on the right is called the karthal.
The primary motif
of the tribal is buffalo horn as they worship buffalos. Other patterns used for
embroidery are generally wildflowers, mountains, valley, sun, moon, rabbit,
reptiles, etc. Another important design is black triangles in a box design in
honor of their priest. Other than Toda shawls,other various products are made
from this traditional embroidery such as dupattas, table cloth, cell phone
pouch, stoles, kurtis, skirts, pants,salwar-kurta, purse, bags, frocks, etc.
The demand
for Toda embroidered clothes has been declining over the past few years. It’s
really hard for artisans to sell more than 4-5 pieces of hand-woven textiles
each day in shops and other shops operated with help of forest department near
tourist attractions in Nilgiri. This craft is also facing a challenge from
duplicate products of Toda embroidery.
Toda embroidery is
extraordinary and unique from other arts. Artisans are carrying this legacy to
symbolize dignity which is also an expression of their culture and aesthetic values
with needle and threads. It was granted Geographical Indication (GI)
status in 2012. However, it is hard for this craft to survive and is in danger
of becoming extinct as many people are unaware of this craft along with competition
from duplicated products. The art can revive and save the rich culture of
tribal art by creating a market for them, innovating in designs and
products and capacity building of the artisans.
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