Telia Rumal – The unidentified craft of Telangana

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 Telia Rumal is a handcrafted product which originated in Andhra Pradesh back to the early 19th Century. Telia Rumal means ‘Oily handkerchief’.Telia Rumal is made by the double ikat weaving process. Telia Rumal is currently practiced in several villages of Nalgonda district of Telangana which traditionally used to do at Chirala, Andhra Pradesh. The word Ikat means to bind or knot, as the yarn that goes into the weave is tied and dyed before being woven. In single Ikat fabrics, either warp or weft is tie-dyed and woven with the other thread (weft or warp) of solid color. In double Ikat, both warp and weft are tie-dyed according to a pre-determined pattern and then woven to create a design on the fabric.

 

This craft involved a detailed process in which the warp and the weft are tied and dyed according to a predetermined design. The yarn is dipped into an oily solution before the weaving. This oil property of Rumal makes it distinct from the Pochampally ikat sari and Patola sarees.


Artisan making Telia Rumal

Making Telia Rumal is a laborious double ikat weave. Artisans use Cotton or silk yarn to weave Telia Rumal. The yarn is treated with oil of sesame and Castrol seed and sheep dung. The entire process takes 21 days. This yarn is used for Warp and Weft which is tied and dyed process as per predetermined geometrical design. Each of the warp and weft threads is positioned on the loom before weaving. Before final products there are several steps followed during weaving. Artisans uses only 3 colors – red black and white in geometrical designs using natural dyes.  The weaving process needs a great amount of practice and precision for the warp and weft to be methodically converted to artistic design.


Artisan Weaving Telia Rumal 

These cloths were used by women as Scarves and by men as a turban, Lungi and shoulder Scarf. This fabric’s  unique characteristic is that when it wears as a turban, it keeps the head cool in summer and warm in the winter. Another feature is that when it wear as a lungi, due to smell of fabric attracts fish and the nature of the fabric keeps the salt water away from the fabric so the lungi does not get wet. The typical traditional design comprises of a geometric grid, patterning with borders all around and creating small squares at four corners.

 

Telia Rumal used to be exported to Asian African countries and the Middle Eastern market as it was worn primarily around the neck. In Arab countries, the Muslim women used to wear Telia Rumals as head Scarves. Currently, Telia wave is also diversified into different products like saris, dupattas, stoles, table covers and wall hanging. Telia sarees still take over 2 months to weave due to the laborious process of oil treatment. The new products are becoming more popular and the fabric has also taken demand to make fusion wear clothes.

 

Telia Rumal is distinct from all handmade textiles in India. Being a source of livelihood, Telia Rumal is still practiced by rural artisans. Telia Rumal is laborious and intricate double ikat weave. Very few people are aware of this craft and its origin.  Due to the changing demand for the market, Sarees and other products have taken place of Telia Rumal. 

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