Zardozi embroidery — Sewing with Gold String
India is home to a distinct range of handmade Embroidery work with different styles and history. Every region has its own style as per their own culture. Zardozi work is also part of traditional handmade embroidery. Zardozi is unique and identifiable gold and silver embroidery done on different fabrics. Zardozi is a Persian word in which “zar” meaning gold and “dozi” meaning embroidery. This distinct art of Lucknow has also received Geographical Indication.
Zardozi has a long historical background. In India, this craft has been in existence from the time of the Rig Veda. It has been brought to India by the Mughal in the 12th Century. During the Mughal period, it was called “Shahikaam”. Artisans used to work with pure silver wires coated with real gold, which was known as Kalabautan. This art used to male royal garments with gold and silver threads as well as pearls and precious stones. This embroidery used to complement velvet and rich silk fabric during the Mughal era. Art was very costly at that time so only royal, nobles and administrators only could afford it.
However, in recent times Copper wire, gold and silver polished synthetic threads have taken place of pure gold and silver work. But still, it looks royal and a unique craft. Artisans have learned and practiced this traditional art from generation to generation. Today several artisans are spread in Varanasi, Agra, Lucknow, Bareilly, Farukkabad and Rampur districts of Uttar Pradesh. Traditionally only men used to work on this craft in Lucknow. Currently, however, other cities like Hyderabad and Chennai are also emerging as new major Zardozi centers. This embroidery is hand-stitched embroidery which is mainly done by Muslim men. More than 2 Lac artisans are working on this craft.
The basic tools required for Zardozi are wooden or metal frames (adda) fixed on the ground and needle. This is heavy and elaborate embroidery work that uses raw materials like gold and silver threads, metal wires,Dabka(spring kind of thread), Sitara (small spangles), beads, Shiny stones, chalk powder. The Fabric on which this kind of embroidery is done is usually heavy silk, velvet and satin. The process of Zardozi embroidery followed is tracing the motif on plain cloth, setting cloth on adda, embroidery with Dabka, satara or beads and finishing the work. The motifs are largely inspired by Mughal culture. The design of Zardozi craft is primarily floral patterns, paisley (teardrop-shaped motif with a curved upper end), geometrical patterns and jaalis. People are also asking for customization in design as per their taste. The aayate (the verses of the Quran) is embroidered with Zardozi work, framed and placed in mosque or homes.
Zardozi was ideally used to decorate the garments, furnishing and accessorize for the royals but now it has innovated into different designs into various bridal dresses, men coat and other accessories like bag and shoes. Artisans have also developed new varieties of products like belts, handbags, brooches, cushion covers, table covers, decorative boxes and wall hangings. Gulf countries, North and South America, are the main market where this art is always in demand.
Zardozi work is also used in western and contemporary designers wear by many Indian and international designers and Labels. Even in the Indian Fashion industry, famous designers like Ritu Kumar, Sabyasachi Bhattacharya and Manish Malhotra use Zardozi work in their bridal costumes.
At present the scenario is different. This craft is not getting much attention. Craftsmen do work on the ground with the same sitting posture for 8 to 12 hours. This embroidery involves lots of patience and tremendous skill to make delicate products. But their condition is very poor as they are not getting enough wages. As per my conversation during Field visit to Lucknow, Artisans said “We work continuously for more than 8 hours and the whole family are involved in this work but we are receiving 180 to 200 Rs per day. It is very difficult for us to run my home with this much amount”. Most of the Artisans are not aware of government initiatives like medical policies, loans, training program and other benefits due to poor knowledge and illiteracy. Young generations have started to switch professions due to fewer wages. Although Zardozi is very popular, Artisans are being exploited. There is a need for much attention from the government and NGOs to protect the craft and the craftsman.
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